Zac Posen: Clobber for Countesses (Fashion Wire Daily)

New York - Zac Posen took his inspiration from Spain this season, with a Spring 2009 collection that aped Alhambra designs and echoed Gaudi's opulence.

Posen is such a great showman that no matter what he sends out he always earns deafening applause, which was the case Thursday night, Sept. 11, in Bryant Park where his show drew Claire Danes, her beau Hugh Dancy, Venus Williams and sister Serena Williams.

Of all his American generation, Zac probably knows more fashion history than any of his contemporaries, and his ability to create couture-style clothes, while based in New York and devoid of any experience in a Paris atelier, is impressive and remarkable. But while an accomplished promoter, Posen risks becoming the Barnum and Bailey of fashion, as his overripe imagination leads to clothes that are visually jarring and, too often, a tad unwearable.

Posen's key idea for spring was problematic as the series of rotund dresses that opened the show, which ballooned off the hips, visually adding 20 pounds to most models. Why any designer would think that women would want to buy fashion that adds so much weight was questionable.

That said, when he got it right, Posen's ideas sizzled - especially a series of leopard print slinky gowns that had panache and dollops of sass. Made in hues like pistachio and lemon these drew huge explosions of light from the photographers as they hit the top of the runway.

The showstopper was a green chiffon, opened-backed cocktail dress worn by the new model discovery of the season Arlenis Sosa.

Zac Posen's other strong ideas were his pink knit dresses, silver flounce jackets and powerful all black finale with lace, rouched tulle and contessa silk. One almost felt like standing and shouting, "Ole!"